Before the arrival of the Spaniards, the civil war between Huáscar and Atahualpa ended with the latter’s victory. Within this political context, the Spaniards stepped onto Peruvian lands and with first contact that they had with the natives managed to revive an old Inca legend. In it, the god Wiracocha, a man with a white complexion and a large beard, left by ship towards the north, promising to return when a more powerful Inca would ascend who would govern the world.

Seeing a great similarity in Francisco Pizarro to the man spoken of in the legend, Atahualpa believed that he was the designated one, so he exercised the old Incan custom of erasing from history all negative events that have occurred, including stories and objects. The banners of the ancient Incas, who were preserved by their descendants, ran the same fate.

After the conquest and the subsequent Spanish domination, the natives never remained in silence. In the XVIII century, a descendent of the Incas, Tupac Amaru II, organized a great rebellion that put Spanish domination in the Southern Andes in check. After being placated, it was decided that all customs that would bring to mind the Incan past would be eliminated. This measure stayed in effect until the end of the Viceroyalty of Peru.

After various decades after the Independence of Peru, the millennial customs of our Peruvian past started to be revived, for which it was important to recreate many cultural symbols. This is where the rebirth of the celebrations of the Inti Raymi and others that belong to Peruvian folklore began.

The Cuzco flag was created, as such, in 1978, after a contest organized by a local radio station. This new symbol, that attempts to encompass the rich history of the Empire, was inspired in a wiphala, an Aymara word that means “banner”, which possesses seven colors and has a square shape. Under the tourist influence, the Cuzco flag is no more than a modern symbol that revives our past, but that has no comparable historic substance.

Imagen: Travelpod

Tags Blogalaxia: History, mysticism, Cuzco, Peru

Tourism has spoken a lot about the Urus, creating a myth whereby it is said that they are the descendants of an extinct race that has lost its language – Uroquilla – who live, exiled by the Aymaras, by the shores of the lake and who are the original settlers of the Meseta del Collao.

However, a lot of these affirmations are nothing more than interpretations from diverse colonial documents, which is why the inhabitants were called “Uros”. The Aymaras and the Uros are the same people, but the difference between them occurred when the Spanish mayors started classifying the Indians according to their socio-economic position in order to charge them tribute. They named the poorest fishermen who lived near the lake “Uros” due to the fact that since they had little resources they were not able to pay the taxes that the Aymaras paid and the name stayed.

It is customary to tell foreign tourists certain mystical characteristics about this town. One of its most prominent ones is its dark blood, which is very close to black. This is due to the fact that they possess more quantities of hemoglobin and red corpuscles than other people, which is the body’s natural reaction in order to be able to better distribute the little oxygen found at these altitudes.  As a consequence of this, the skin acquires a brownish-purplish hue which is not the body’s natural pigmentation, since when they travel to the coast, where there is more oxygen, the skin clears up.

There are 200 families that inhabit the nearly 40 floating islands in Lake Titicaca, which have been constructed with totora, a plant that grows on the water’s floor, that serves to build the homes, vessels and even food.  They devote themselves to fishing, agriculture and the exploitation of the myths created around them by selling crafts to the people who come to visit.

Images: Julius Tours, Silentlandscapes.com, Travel Blog

Blogalaxia Tags: Puno, Totora, Uros, Mysticism, Tourism, Titicaca Lake, Peru.

The Virgin Candelaria

From Febuary 2nd through the 18th, the city of Puno — a port city to lake Titicaca, the worlds tallest lake when you take into consideration its relation to the sea level — dresses its streets in a festive mood that pays homage to the patron saint of the city: the Lady of Candelaria.

The Lady of Candelaria is one of the may representations of the Virgin Mary and whose following comes from Tenerife, Spain.  The Virgin’s name is attributed the original sculpture found in the Basilica Candelaria in the city.

Legend has it that during the vice royalty period, a large battle emerged between invaders and inhabitants in a villa in Puno.  Villagers from everywhere joined the fight against the invaders. Initially, the locals were loosing the battle, but the tide was turned when one villager took the Virgin’s image into battle.  The action rose morale and fighting spirits, and as a result of this, the city’s inhabitants were able to force the invaders into retreat.  Since then, La Candelaria is considered the patron saint of the land, and all of those who hold her in high regards ask for both protection and a good harvest.

The Festival

Aside from it being a worship-based festival, the festival of the Lady of Candelaria also represents the pre-Colombian rituals practiced during planting seasons, harvest seasons, and the pre-Colombian mining culture of Puno.

The height of the festival is February 2nd.  This day begins with a break-of-dawn pilgrimage where the festival’s overseers, their invitees, and musicians trek to a hill where they all begin the first homage of the day to the Lady of Candelaria.  After that, the band of overseers and musicians descend from the hill with song and fireworks.  The singing and fireworks display continues until they reach San Juan Bautista Church, which is the sanctuary where the Lady of Candelaria resides.

Morning mass begins as soon as the pilgrims arrive at the church.  By the afternoon, the farmers of the city’s limits parade into Puno on horseback and bring with them the Andean priests known as the “Yachiris” who bring offerings and prayers to the Lady of Candelaria.

The first Sunday of the month, everyone dresses-up an goes to the city’s stadium to see the festival’s folkloric dance competition.  The competition brings over 70 dance troupes (each with approximately 100 members) to the forefront, and they all perform folkloric choreographic dances from their respective regions.  Their main aim is to please the Lady of Candelaria, and the winner’s who emerge victorious take the year’s title and bragging rights to their hometowns and villages.

With the competition over, the musicians and dancers exit the stadium and flood the streets adding a wonderful spice to the already vibrant festival for the next seven days.  During this period, the peoples’ favorite dance ritual called the “Diablada” is performed.  This is an essential dance to the festival, and it originated when a group of trapped miners were given mercy and taken peacefully by the Lady of Candelaria.  During the “Diablada”,  dancers dress themselves in demon masks and as Jacancho the god of the mines.  The dance ends with the performers laying flowers on the graves of miners.

Tours

Among all the travel agencies that offer tours of the Lady of Candelaria festival, Dos Manos Peru offers packages of two to four days that include transportation to the lodge, board, a trip through the festival, tours of the Uro Isles, Amantani, Taquile, and the Bolivian city of Copacabana.

Staying

One of the best hotels to say in Puno during the festival is Hotel Casa Andina Puno Plaza located a block from the Plaza de Armas and seven minutes to lake Titicaca by car.  The hotel offers internet services, a business center, a parking lot, storage facilities, a laundromat, medical services, safe boxes, and a breakfast buffet for first day guests.

Recommendations

The weather is a bit chilly with some light rain.  Waterproof and warm clothes are recommended.  Sunglasses are also convenient, and don’t forget to bring plenty of film, needless to say a camera.

Images: La Maracucha Radio.com, Viajes y Turismo, Peru Travel Paradise.
Tags Blogalaxia: Turismo, Perú, Puno, Fiesta De La Virgen De La Candelaria.

The Sacred Valley of the Inca in Cusco is the setting of one of the most exclusive centers of relaxation in all of Peru and of Latin America. It is about the Spa of Hotel Casa Andina, which has been created under a new concept based on its architecture and the services that offers: The Andean Spa.

The Magic of the Andean Spa

Without any doubt, all and each one of the elements of the spa has the influence of the Andes and of the Inca culture. Since their arrival, the traveler experiences a beautiful reception that wraps it in the spirit of the Andean instrumental music, with flutes and zampoñas whose melodies attract our senses and they free us of the accumulation of negative energy.

Upon entering we can observe the imposing flats of stone in which the bamboo walls settles, curtains with colorful textiles, waterfalls and, as central motive, a tub done entirely of stone to carry out the sessions of hydrotherapy. Moreover, we can notice the use of warm lighting based on candles and fluorescent yellow, leaves of coke, stones and flowers petals that fill the place with a special energy.

Another one of the things that make this spa unique is its assembly of “Andean treatment”, among the ones that we emphasize the Llampu Qara or quinua facial, the Qampi Kaysay or hot stone massage, the Kuka Mitu or thermal mud and the Maracuyawan Qapoy or massage of passion fruit and honey. But the main therapy is the singular one Añallaw or massage of Andean energy that takes advantage of the sunlight, the incense and the leaves of coke to clean the toxins of our body.

Each treatment of the Spa of the Hotel Casa Andina lasts on average forty-five minutes to an hour and a half with prices that oscillate between the twenty and one hundred and twenty dollars. They all include the use steam rooms, sauna, showers, zones of rest and infusions.

Reservations

To enjoy the services of this marvelous and complete center of relaxation we can enter their web page, where we will also find their telephone and e-mail address to make personal reservations. Another option is to do it through a tour operator such as Peruland*, that specializes in organizing trips to the Cusco.

We also recommend

Since the spa is located within the Hotel Casa Andina we can take advantage of lodging a few days in its facilities, in which we will find extensive gardens, private terraces, a planetary-observatory, a restaurant (the Restaurant Alma) and the possibility to go horseback riding, to practice mountain cycling and to walk in daily tours to Maras, Moray, Pisac and Ollantaytambo.

Fotos: Casa Andina

Tags Blogalaxia: Turismo, Peru, Cusco, Spa Casa Andina, Relax, Sacred Valley, Inca.

Contrapunteo Celebrations

Every year, towards the end of the year in December, the whole Huancavelica region located in the Central Sierras of Peru, prepares itself and its people for the grand festivities that commence around this time – the celebrations of Atipanacuy or Contrapunteo (Counterpoint), in which the crème de la crème of “scissor dancing” (Las Danzas de Tijeras), the most prominent and distinguished of these dancers, compete to be the best at the complicated intricate dances, which are definitely a real manifestation of moving art, and require a high level of mental and physical fitness as well as dexterity from the “danzaqs” or dancers.

Please don’t be fooled, Scissor Dancing is not your every day type of dance style. Every single one of its steps and movements pays homage to the “apus” or “wamanis” – the Andean deities/gods which to this day still have their cult following. Some of these, to name a few are: Pachamama representing Earth, Hannacpacha representing Sky and Ucapacha the deity of the Underworld.

When recounting the legends, it is said that the scissor dance dates back to innumerable times because of the “Tusuq Laylas” (the predecessors of the danzaqs), who were the priests and clergy at the time and deserving of the highest respects within their villages.

As was the case in much of the New World, the arrival of the Spaniards caused unrest and upheaval, and in this instance the Tusuq Laylas were accused of “supaypa wanan” – being the devil’s spawns – and were forced to escape persecution and seek refuge within the mountains.  Lacking the capacity to fight back, they were dealt a compromise – they could return to fully integrate into their villages, but with the condition that their “dances” should celebrate the Catholic deities instead.

Atipanacuy Rituals

From December 20th to the 27th one can appreciate from the early morning hours the danzaqs which parade through the village streets on their way to the atrium of St. Francis Church (Iglesia San Francisco), in the city of Huancavelica where the scissor dancing competitions take place.  One of the essential elements of the dance choreography are the telltale scissors made of stainless steel and sharpened on river rocks and whose sound is curiously similar to that of the sound of rainfall in the area.

While the various spectacles take place (each lasting several hours), the village children, women and their assistants also take part in the festivities by “zapateando,” or stepping, to the rhythm of the harp and violin.  In the evenings the “Qolla Alva” – a minor dance competition for apprentices and novices of the danzaqs -  begins, where they strive to execute less complicated versions of the dance, without losing the magical enchantment of the spectacle.

Getting There

Arriving in Huancavelica from Lima, you would have to take a plane to the Ayacucho region, which averages an hour’s time, and then follow that by taking an inter-province bus which will be more or less a five hour journey, until reaching the destination.

T organize the trip, you could hire the services of local touring agencies like Turismo Andino, whom will cover transportation, lodging arrangements and meal costs with your purchased package, and is accredited by the National Commision of Peru for Exports and Tourism (Promperu).

Where to Stay

The best place to stay at in Huancavelica city is the Presidente Hotel, belonging to the Cadena Hotelera del Centro (a hotel chain), and located directly in front of the main square (plaza de armas). The hotel offers room service, cleaners, heating system, work/business area, relaxation lounge, an event hall for corporate functions and a pool.

In addition, the Mercurio Restaurant inside the hotel has some of the best local dishes of the region on the menu, like Mondongo (tripe), la Pachamanca, Chupe de Zapallo, and el Puchero, a super flavorful soup made with cuts of beef and fresh vegetables grown and produced within the region.

Other Recommendations

Since the Atipanacuy festivals take place during the region’s usual rain season, it is necessary to bring an umbrella with you and a waterproof jacket or anorak, and warm clothing for the chilly evenings where temperatures can be known to drop to 2 Cº (35 º F).

Fotos: TelecentrosRurales.com, Olx, Congalla.

Tags Blogalaxia: Turismo, Perú, Huancavelica, Danzantes De Tijeras, Festival Del Atipanacuy.

Each June 24, the Cusqueños entertain and share with visitors the Inti Raymi, or Festival of the Sun, which pays tribute to the main Inca god and demonstrates the people’s and its leader’s gratitude, for the granted favors.

Recreating the Festival of the Sun
The staging of the Inti Raymi takes place on the esplanade of the fortress of Sacsayhuamán (satiated Falcon), as this animal was considered the protector of the Manco Cápac, the first Inca of the empire.

Sacsayhuamán is located north of the “Plaza de Armas” (Main Square) of Cuzco. Over one hundred thousand persons arrive there, between inhabitants and tourists, to witness the staging of Cuzco’s most important festive ritual.

After observing the arrival to the esplanade of the actors portraying the Inca – being carried on a stretcher, and its Royal Procession of almost one hundred and fifty people – the musicians play a solemn march using Andean musical instruments like the pututo, cornetas (a horn-like instrument) and reed flute.

With the musical intro, the actor in charge of bringing the cusqueño leader to life, lights a fire which is then moved to a mound of straw piled on a gold tray, and then lights the torches of the agents of the four “suyos” (regions) or Empire divisions: Chinchaysuyo, Collasuyo, Antisuyo y Contisuyo.

Meanwhile, the actors portraying the people wait squatting for his majesty to give the God Sun’s approval so that they may begin their product offerings and dances, which concludes this exhibit of live tradition and culture.

Planning and lodging
To enjoy the celebration of the Inti Raymi, we can enlist the services of a travel agency specialized in trips to Cuzco, like Machu Picchu Travel, which organizes tours which include airplane tickets, airport pick-up and transfer to the chosen hotel, breakfast, transfers, as well as guided tours to the Sacsayhuamán fortress and enjoyment of the festivities.

One of the most exclusive places to stay in the city of Cuzco is the hotel Libertador (Plazoleta Santo Domingo 259), located in front of the Koricancha or Temple of the Sun’s Virgins. Among others, its guest can enjoy high speed internet, bar, café, restaurant, gym, jacuzzi and shops where you can get all sorts of cusqueño souvenirs.

Another highly recommended lodging is the Hotel Monasterio (Palacio Street 136, in front of the Nazarenas square), obtaining its name as it was built over an ancient Spanish monastery dating back to 1592. In addition to the beautiful architecture, visitors can enjoy a relaxing moment in its exclusive restaurant, its outdoors café, or in a private spa session.

To taste the best of the cusqueño food with dishes such as Puchero (a type of stew), Pepián de Cuy (stew made with corn and guinea pig meat), Humitas (similar to a tamal), Adobo de Cerdo (pig stew) and the Olluquito con Charqui (ulluco with llama meat), visitors can go to the Inka Wall restaurant (Santa Catalina Angosta Street 135). According to legend, it is located in the same place where the Inca Túpac Yupanqui lived over seven hundred years ago.
If you wish to combine Cuzco’s gastronomy with international cuisine, Fusiones Restaurant Bar, located in the corner of the avenue El Sol and Mantas street, just a few yards from the Plaza de Armas (Main Square), is a great alternative, especially for night owls.

Some recommendations
Although it does not rain during the season in which the Inti Raymi takes place, we must bring warm clothes for the night, as temperatures can reach 39º F. We must also consume lots of coca tea, in order to adjust to the city’s height: 11,155 feet above sea level.

Fotos:  Hostal El Marquez, Para Conocer, Apu Tours.

Tags Blogalaxia: Turismo, Perú, Cusco, Inti Raymi.

Each month of July the province of Paucartambo, in the Cuzco region, puts on its best to celebrate the Virgen del Carmen or Carmelo festivities; patron saint of the Ejército de los Andes (Andean Army), lead by the Argentinean liberator Don José de San Martín in the independence war against the Spanish crown.

This worship has its origins the apparition the Virgin made in the XIII century, during Pentecost, to a group of followers in Mount Carmel, in today’s Israel. According to catholic tradition, the Virgin’s promise was to take directly to heaven those who carried the scapular with her image at all times. This is why in all her paintings and sculptures, she appears with said object on the neck.

In honor of the Virgin
The province of Paucartambo is located at approximately 14,000 feet above sea level, and about 62 miles from the city of Cuzco. The festivities of the Virgen del Carmen take place between July 7 and 18 in the village of the same name. The main day of it is July 16.

The previous night (July 15) the “qonoy” or bonfire is held. Then, the “chunchos” – dancers wearing masks shaped with the face of malicious looking animals – recreate the purgatory with wicked movements and some acrobatics.
Around ten, the musicians play the “Serenata a la Virgen” (the serenade to the Virgin). It is composed of various joyful melodies, among which is the “Punchaynikipi” (”in your day”), which lasts until July 16’s dawn.

At 5 in the morning of that day the “Misa de Aurora” (Aurora’s Mass) takes place to bless the festivity, and around 10 in the morning the “Misa de Fiesta” (Festivity Mass) is performed, with moving melodies that make way to the parade on the streets and squares of the province. The day ends the festivities with a large procession that begins at 3 in the afternoon and lasts until the first few hours of the night.

On the 17th, known as the “bendicion y guerrilla” (blessing and guerrilla), another mass is performed. Thereafter, there is a pilgrimage parade to go to the cemetery and visit the tombs of deceased dancers. The celebrations end on the 18th, when the Virgin is placed on the temple’s altar and the villagers receive her blessing.

The tour to the festivity
To be a part of this beautiful celebration, we can hire the services of travel agencies such as InfoHub, which organizes two-day trips (which can be extended), in order to better enjoy the whole itinerary of the main dates (July 15 and 16). These also include the purchase of air fare (plane tickets from Lima to Cuzco), pick-up at the airport, round trip transportation to Paucartambo, a guide’s explanation, lodging at the chosen hotel and food.

The lodging
One of the places to stay in the city of Cuzco is the Hotel Monasterio (136 Palacio Street, Plazoleta Nazarenas), ten minutes from the airport and two blocks from the Plaza de Armas (Main Square). The premises – built in the old San Antonio Abad Seminary and with a five-star rating – offers its guests fax, internet, living room with fire place, safe deposit box services, as well as bar and restaurants in the hotel’s square.

At the Tupay restaurant, of the Hotel Monasterio, we can sample the most delicious dishes, typical of the Cuzco area. Among those are the Adobo de Cerdo (pig stew), the Tamal, made from dried corn, the Saralawa (fresh corn soup, beans and yellow chili), the Chuño Cola (soup made with meat and rice, chickpeas and chuño) and the Pachamanca, which is always offered.

Do not forget
To maximize the enjoyment of the Virgen del Carmen festivities, we cannot forget to bring a camera, some cash to buy drinks during the tour, as well as sun glasses, sun block, scarf, gloves and a warm coat.